I suppose it's not really Vietnam unless you've gone to visit one of the country's most historic Buddhist temples. Located a mere two hours south from Hanoi, Perfume Pagoda was a short and convenient trip to take during my second day in the city.
The trip was promoted by my hostel, though I was actually the only person from my hostel partaking in it. There was another tour service who came around and picked up the various tourists throughout the city wishing to visit this temple, and, frankly, I believe it's quite a shame that not more people took advantage of this tour.
The journey to Perfume Pagoda from Hanoi, however, consisted of much more than a simple bus ride. We'd been told from the get-go that we'd be taking a one-hour boat ride to our destination, but nobody went into specifics about what kind of boat ride it would be.
As the bus reached the end of its journey, we found ourselves by a stream, which turned out to be the Yen River, dotted with many small rowboats. A bunch of Vietnamese women were sitting and talking near the dock as we approached, at which point our tour guide told us to get into groups as we'd be getting on. In groups of five or six, we proceeded to get on the boats as one of the Vietnamese women took a seat at the back and started rowing.
This experience alone was mind-blowing. Here I was, in a middle of a long stream in rural Vietnam, being rowed down a river, surrounded by absolutely incredible scenery, being rowed by a skinny, middle-aged Vietnamese woman. This was especially impressive because, based solely on their appearance, you'd never guess these women would be physically capable of rowing for hours on end.
At the end of the tour we were all advised to tip our incredible rowers 20,000 dong (approximately $1.00 CAD) each, and I get the feeling that this is actually a pretty lucrative business, at least from the Vietnamese perspective. We were told that for these ladies, this was their entire job and they would spend the majority of their days rowing tourists to and from Perfume Pagoda. At first thought, it might seem tedious, but they are in incredible shape and they seem to be making good money. Above all else, they seemed happy, upbeat and in good spirits, so really, that's all that matters.
The boat ride, though an hour long, was absolutely sensational. When the journey began, we could see huge rolling hills in the distance, and it was impressive to row straight for the mountains from our starting point. It is virtually impossible to get bored during this journey, as the incredible scenery is never-ending.
It did rain on-and-off, however that did not deter from the sheer beauty and tranquility of the moment. It was truly an amazing experience to just be set there in rural Vietnam and to take it all in.
Once we finally arrived we went and visited the Pagoda. A pagoda is essentially a tiered tower with multiple eaves, and Perfume Pagoda is actually the site of many of them. This Pagoda in particular is actually a vast complex of Buddhist temples and shrines, and it was built directly into the limestone Huong Tich Mountains. The site dates back to the 15th century when it was discovered by a Buddhist monk meditating in the area, though parts of it have since needed to be rebuilt.
What's interesting to note is that the Buddhist architecture on display here in Vietnam is quite different than the architecture in Korea. Korean Hanok architecture is built rather low, and there's a heavier focus on wooden builds, whereas in Vietnam it seems as though stone was more commonly used.
It was impressive to just walk around and scout out the area. The pagodas themselves provided a nice visual, as there were many pillars sticking up from the ground. The site was surrounded by the ancient gates, which imposed themselves on you upon arrival.
The temples were picturesque from the outside, and laced with gold from the inside, as are most of these religious sites. They were even guarded by dragons! As in all Buddhist temples, it's mandatory to remove your shoes before entering. It's actually also quite important for all visitors (though especially women) to cover their shoulders and have their legs covered up until their knees.
This was certainly one of the most impressive temples I've ever visited, and it's consistent with most other Buddhist temples in the sense that it was built in the mountain and sort of away from society. In fact, one of the only Buddhist temples that does not follow this pattern is Haedong Yonguggsa Temple, which I visited when I went to Busan, in the south of South Korea.
After an average and unimpressive lunch at the sole local restaurant, we were off to explore the Huong Tich Cave. Everyone was given the option to either hike to the top of the mountain or to take the cable car, and, being quite an active person, I opted for the hike. As it turned out, not one other person was too keen on a hike, and I hadn't paid the cable car fee prior to the tour, so I was off on my own. I was frankly a bit disappointed to see that my tour guide did not even offer to guide me up. He instead simply pointed me in the right direction and told me to walk in a straight line all the way to the top.
Naturally, I got lost, because there were so many confusing road deviations. I ended up nearly wandering into some religious procession, where a group of women gathered atop a hill and were praying to a statue of Buddha. Alongside them there were many monks walking around. Despite being alone, not once did I feel threatened, and the monks even smiled at me. I didn't stay long, as I quickly turned back and tried to find the right path, but it was obvious that these people epitomized rural Vietnam. I don't know much about them but I think it's safe to assume that they live in the area and often gather to pray.
I did eventually find my way,, though it took a while. On top of it all, I was alone walking through mountains in a country where this may not necessarily be too safe. Along the way, however, I discovered so many interesting things. First off, along these paths are peoples' homes. As you walk along the narrow path, there are small areas, covered by just a curtain, in which people lived. These people literally lived outside, and some even left their curtains open, allowing me to peer into their homes. Though extremely small, they all seemed to have beds, a stove and some furniture. Some people even had a TV! It was evident that these people didn't earn very much, as many of them hung out on the path with a big table trying to sell water to anyone who passed by them. Once again, it's such a humbling experience to see how other people live, not only to appreciate what we have, but also to appreciate what they have and their lives, however difficult or easy they may be. I continue to believe that materialism and money are not a necessity for life, despite what some people believe.
For obvious reasons, I unfortunately did not manage to get any pictures of the monks, nor the homes along the path, because I did not want to disrespect these people, nor did I want to risk my possessions. This said, the memory is indeed engraved in my mind!
After what seemed like an hour, I finally made my way to the top of the mountain. I was absolutely drenched from head to toe in sweat, though it was one of the best hikes of my life. I quickly located the rest of the group, but not before taking some stunning photos of the view from atop.
The view was absolutely stunning, and surely it would have been further enhanced by some sun, but I guess you can't have everything.
The Huong Tich Cave features the inner temple of the complex. It's actually quite small, but contains two chambers, the back chamber housing a shrine filled with many riches and even several charitable donations.
After a much easier hike down the mountain (this time accompanied by some other travellers), it was time to head back to Hanoi. We took another boat ride down the river, caught the bus, and were off.
This visit to Perfume Pagoda was another incredible experience in Vietnam. Though it preceded my stops to Halong Bay and Hoi An, it remains one of the highlights of my time spent in Vietnam. In reality, Perfume Pagoda was more than just a Buddhist Temple, but an opportunity to really learn about and experience firsthand how some of the locals lived, all the while taking advantage of some of the country's most breathtaking scenery.
-Daniele
